Cruising onboard the Viking River Cruise Boat HEMMING up & down Portugal’s River of Gold
By Kirsten Vibe Philippides, The Danish Pioneer Newspaper’s New York Local Editor –
The Vikings were definitely in Portugal at one point, but this Viking is quite another kind of Norse explorer.
The Viking River Cruise line was started by a Norwegian former CEO of the Royal Viking Line. He was cruising the Russian rivers and thought that this was an excellent way of travelling.
This cruise line has now expanded vastly since its beginning in 1989 and now comprises close to fifty-seven river cruise boats which all carry names from the Norse mythology like Aegir, Odin, etc. They are now to be found on all the European rivers as well as in Asia. These boats appear to enjoy an enormous popularity because the trips are so well organized, the excursions of great interest and variety, and the décor is understated Scandinavian elegance with fine quality textiles and muted colors. The state rooms come with a “French balcony” with just enough room for two to sit outside with a drink and enjoy the landscape as it glides past one’s eye.
The opportunity presented itself to see Portugal with a friend in April this year. Via Milan we landed first in Lisbon which was a new travel destination for me. This city is very picturesque, old, charming with colorful buildings, some decorated from top to bottom with Portuguese tiles and all with wrought-iron balconies. Its rich ancient history bespeaks its past as a world-wide colonial power.
Part of the old city is called the Alfama which stems from the city’s Moorish days and it definitely looks a North African Kasbah. There are three museums that are “must-sees”: The Gulbenkian Museum which houses the most exquisite art works in a contemporary setting, The Museo National de Azulejo (The Tile Museum) and the Museo Nacional de Arte Antiga (The National Museum of Lisboa).
Viking busses took us from Lisbon to the University of Coimbra, one of Europe’s oldest (founded in 1290). The students met us in their long, black capes and they took us into one of Europe’s most elaborate libraries.
In this town we were presented to the Portuguese music called “Fado”! The Fado song can either be a sad or sentimental ballad, but especially with students it is likely to be funny or satirical. We were introduced to many kinds of Fados at various restaurants. When in Portugal it is a “must” to listen to Fado music which expresses the country’s soul.
From Coimbra the Viking buses took us up to Porto where our VIKING RIVER CRUISE BOAT “HEMMING” was waiting for us, anchored up on the Duoro River, which means the River of Gold in Portuguese. We toured the famous “Sandeman” Port Wine castle guided through the elegant, dark cellars where thousands upon thousands of bottles of vintage port are stored. Naturally, we were treated to tastings of their finest port. The tour guide informed us about the fine points of storing port in casks made of oak from the U.S. and Europe.
“Hemming” is one of the newest boats of the line. Very elegant and beautifully outfitted in Scandinavian style blonde woods, impressive staterooms designed to fit the passengers’ needs exactly. The food was good and healthy and the portions European-style smallish.
The cruise was an immensely pleasurable one, leisurely floating upstream on the picturesque Duoro River with little villages up the mountain sides interspersed with acres and acres of undulating vineyards making good use of the soil.
Every day was planned around one or two excursions to villages, monasteries, vineyards and castles along the river. Always great variety of distractions: one day it would be a visit to a local bakery or vineyard, another day to a Fado show or local dance performance. In the evening the staff would have arranged a fabulous dinner in an old castle, always taking care to serve us local and ethnic specialties. Another treat was visiting the splendid and opulent Mateus palace and gardens.
A highlight was a bus tour to Salamanca, in nearby Spain. The Duoro River does not extend that far. This medieval town is a Unesco World Heritage site, and we enjoyed the ornate cathedral and the famous university as well as an outstanding Art Deco Museum. What could be better than being welcomed back to a red carpet entrance with serenading musicians and a glorious sunny evening barbeque on the deck with line dancing lead by the energetic and always accommodating staff. The tour director and the tour guides went beyond the call of duty to make sure that everybody had a good time and felt safe and pampered. We were all made to feel like treasured guests. The passengers were basically made up of people over 50-60, many retired people who had traveled the world and were interesting to talk to. Most were doctors, lawyers, engineers, professionals from England, the U.S., Canada and Australia. They seemed very appreciative of the Viking line’s efforts to present Portugal’s rich history, culture and traditions. This is a very different cruise experience. What could be better than leisurely sailing up or downstream a river waking up to rolling landscapes and medieval villages dotting the landscape. No seasickness, no worrying about long passages on the high seas with rough weather. However, the Duoro was considered a dangerous river in the old days, but five locks ensure the relative smooth passing through Portugal’s River of Gold.
The last lock was malfunctioning on the passage back so we had to be transported to Porto in Viking buses, but the friendly and helpful crew saw to it that we all made the plane trips back on time. Our personal favorite George (or was it Joau) actually never got any sleep the last night to see to it that we were all boarding the 4 am bus to make the plane connections.
A very memorable trip indeed to a country whose people are warm, courteous and willing to go out of their way to make you feel like their private and treasured guest.
===============================================================
ABOUT THE DANISH PIONEER NEWSPAPER – SINCE 1872 – ENGLISH & DANISH ARTICLES
THE DANISH PIONEER NEWSPAPER IN ACTION: Did you know that The Danish Pioneer staff, editors, photographers columnists and writers help readers discover unique travel destinations, interesting films, concerts, exhibitions, sporting events, delicious restaurants, special birthdays and scholarship opportunities in the USA, Canada, Denmark & Scandinavia? Come discover more in 2014. Visit www.thedanishpioneer.com
THE DANISH PIONEER NEWSPAPER WAS FOUNDED IN OMAHA, NEBRASKA IN 1872 AND TODAY IS STILL PUBLISHED JUST OUTSIDE CHICAGO, ILLINOIS. Did you know by supporting The Danish Pioneer Newspaper’s print edition, we are able to offer the bonus of our colorful, exciting website. Please support The Danish Pioneer Newspaper. Subscriptions to our print edition are economical, and you receive 26 issues per year including the extra-large, extra-special holiday issue. Subscriptions and advertisements – like annual donations to ethnic institutions or memberships to clubs, lodges and organizations – help The Danish Pioneer Newspaper staff to preserve and to support the Danish-American ethnic press in addition to allowing us to promote the Danish and Scandinavian culture, communities, heritage and traditions in the USA and North America. Please subscribe today or give The Danish Pioneer Newspaper as a gift subscription to a friend or relative. Visit www.thedanishpioneer.com/subscribe
